Installation

The parquet is glued from its matches into a so-called floating floor, i.e. not fastened to the base.

Figure 1: Install the first board with side and end groves against the wall. Place wedges between board and wall.

Figure 2: When you have to cut a board, turn the board along the previous one so that tongues meet. Push the groove end against the wall. Cut the board in such a manner that when installed, a 10 mm space is left between the board and the wall. Do not apply glue yet.

Figure 3: If the wall is not straight, saw a wedge to a suit­able length and move it along the wall drawing at the same time a sawing line onto the boards. Thus the following rows will fol­low the wall line.  

Figure 4: Apply glue into the grooves of the extension boards. Figure 5: Place a wedge between the last board end and the wall and tighten the end joint by using crowbar and wedges.  

Figure 5: Place a wedge between the last board end and the wall and tighten the end joint by using crowbar and wedges.

Figure 6: The glue is applied into the groove along the entire side of the board as well as the end groove. Glue consumption is app. 100-g/square meter. Remove the excess of glue immediately.  

Figure 7: Start the following row with the remaining piece of a cut board. Apply the glue to the entire length of the groove. Push the groove against the tongue. Stand on the boards, apply the hitting wedge to the tongue and hit along the side, starting from the s.c. free end.  

Figure 8: To fit the last board, place the board on top of the for­mer row, then take a short piece of board and turn it upside down on the other board and push the tongue match against the wall. Draw the saw line along the groove side. The last row is then installed with the help of the crowbar. Finally adjust wedges between the board and the wall.  

  Narrow passages  

Figure 9: If you install the par­quet crosswise a narrow passage you get a good result by making a joint in every second row.

Change of installation direction

If you have to continue the instal­lation from the groove side then glue the grooves together using loose tongues. Then you can go on from the tongues.  

  Pipes  

Figure 10: Drill a hole which is 20 mm larger than the outer measure of the pipe and saw a wedge formed piece extending to the hole in the board. Cover the gap between the pipe and the parquet with a plastic pipe push­ing. The distance between radia­tors and walls should be at least 60 mm.  

  Door openings  

Figure 11: If the floor in the cross direction of the boards is more than 6 m or includes a door opening, we recommend you to use a threshold or seam strip. These must be fastened to the base so that they allow the par­quet to move freely.  

Figure 12: Leave sufficiently wide and high rabbets for door-frames. Make the rabbet by plac­ing a piece of parquet board with cardboard underneath next to the frame and saw along the top surface of the board. Thus you get the right measure. Knock the rabbet open with a chisel and install the parquet under the frame leaving sufficient clear­ance. See that the parquet extends beneath the foot- and door frame ledges.